India: Holy Cows, Colour & Chaos
If you’ve travelled to India, you’ll know it’s a full-blown sensory overload. Colourful and chaotic, nowhere quite compares to this vibrant and diverse destination. The smells alone are intoxicating, intense, and unforgettable. The air is thick with roasting spices, wafts of incense, the aroma of chai, engine fumes, open drains and—if you’re on the Ganges—the unmistakable scent of burning bodies and raw sewage. India is not for the faint-hearted.
My first experience of India was in the city of Varanasi, after travelling down from Nepal (an entirely different experience—more on that in another blog post!). One of the oldest living cities in the world, Varanasi is widely regarded as the spiritual capital of India. Situated in the fertile Ganga Valley on the banks of the Ganges, it is a major pilgrimage site for Hindus, who come to bathe in the holy river and perform funeral rites.
If you’re looking for a relaxed introduction to India, Varanasi is probably not the place to start. This city is maximum chaos. As a traveller, it will test your patience, your resolve, and sometimes your stomach. Here, the profound cycle of life, death, and rebirth unfolds in full view every day.
The pollution can be overwhelming. It’s eye-opening to see people washing clothes and bathing in the Ganges when the water contains high levels of untreated sewage, industrial waste, and cremation remains! Faecal coliform levels are reportedly up to 120 times above safe limits. Yet despite the extreme contamination, millions continue to bathe in the river for spiritual reasons. Some locals believe the water possesses purifying qualities, even in the face of its toxicity.
Visually, however, Varanasi is endlessly captivating. There is always something to see or experience—from the ceremonial rituals on the ghats (the steps leading down to the Ganges) to the beautiful displays of Banaras silk. This luxurious brocade fabric, woven with intricate gold or silver designs, fills the many textile shops tucked into the maze-like lanes behind the ghats. If, like me, you love textile design, this is an irresistible place to explore.
India drew me in because I was fascinated by its reputation as a place that could either make you or break you. For generations, travellers have come here searching for meaning, spiritual enlightenment, or a deeper sense of inner peace. Outer peace, however, can be hard to find amid the constant noise and movement—so perhaps inner peace really is the goal. I was captivated by Eat, Pray, Love and Elizabeth Gilbert’s India journey through silence, meditation, and self-discovery.
Of course, I must mention the holy cows. In India, cows are revered as sacred animals, which means they move freely and are protected. They wander through cities, lounge on beaches, swim through the Ganges, and stroll across busy roads with complete indifference to traffic. Locals often feed them, and it’s not unusual to see them resting calmly in the middle of bustling streets.
When it comes to Indian cities, Delhi will certainly test you. Streets can be littered with rubbish and cow dung, and begging—sometimes aggressive—is common. Personal space feels almost non-existent, and little seems off limits. Yet amid the chaos there are remarkable historical landmarks, such as the Red Fort, a magnificent 17th-century Mughal citadel.
Mumbai, on the other hand, has a different energy. Although it is India’s largest city and financial centre, it carries a certain charm. Formerly known as Bombay, the city was transformed by the British from a small archipelago into a major imperial port after it was ceded to England in 1661 as part of a royal dowry. The colonial influence is still visible today in the 19th-century “Bombay Gothic” architecture, including the grand Victoria Terminus. With its historic buildings and double-decker buses, you could almost imagine yourself in central London—until the uniquely Indian rhythms of the city remind you otherwise. Of course, like many megacities, Mumbai also faces serious challenges, including poverty, overcrowding, and sprawling informal settlements.
Travel south to Goa or Kerala and you’ll discover yet another side of India. I loved the beach culture there. The fresh sea air and coastal breeze bring a lighter, more relaxed atmosphere, reflected in the cuisine and lifestyle. Freshly caught fish is a staple in Goa, once a Portuguese colony, and the region has a distinctive cultural blend. Travellers come here to slow down, soak up the seaside culture, and enjoy the hypnotic sounds of Goa trance drifting through the warm night air.
No trip to India is complete without exploring the majestic Rajasthan. In this desert state, rippled dunes stretch across the Thar Desert, surrounding vibrant cities painted pink, gold, and blue (read more in my Desert Dreams blog post).
India may make you. It may break you. But one thing is certain: it will open your mind. When you witness life in such extremes, it’s hard not to feel humbled. My experiences in India were both calm and chaotic, both joyful and frustrating—but above all, unforgettable. What a wild ride.
I truly believe that our life experiences—both positive and challenging—shape our creativity. They build a unique repository of memories, emotions, and perspectives that fuel artistic expression. Travel creates a bank of experiences we can draw upon again and again.
So thank you, India, for the wild moments that shaped me and continue to inspire my work today.
Have you travelled to India? Please share your experiences in the comments - good or bad! I'd love to hear your stories.
All photos copyright ©Abbey Mae